Culture: Clothing
The most traditional and well known Japanese garment must be the kimono.
But a simple,common item, it is not! The kimono through history has been a
most complex and beautiful garment. Full of meaning and variety.


 
 





 





The kimono
The Chinese influence was to be found in many aspects of life during the Nara period (710-794). The long robes worn by Chinese nobles were interpreted into what is now the kimono.
During the Heian period (794-1185), the kimono developed into a more complex style with many layers of different colours and patterns. A simple kimono was often given (instead of money) as a reward for a service, a messenger carrying a most favourable message might receive such a gift.
The most elaborate kimonos are today worn by
apprentice geisha, called Maiko:
From relatively simple to amazingly elaborate, the kimono has an incredible variety of styles to its name. There are styles of kimono for marital status, formal and informal occasions, travelling, bridal kimonos and mourning kimonos.


Construction of the kimono produces a perfectly flat garment that can be folded into a convenient square shape for storage.
It can be taken apart and re-sewn for cleaning or a change of lining colour.
Both colour and design are significant in how and when a kimono is worn, each season had its own range of colour and pattern:

Cherry blossoms for spring time or the Fuji-Gasane (shades of wisteria) kimono in lavender with a blue lining.
For summer, patterns of ocean waves or the Beni-Hitoe, a red unlined kimono was worn.
Today's kimono
for a day out		 Autumn patterns included red maple leaves and for winter, plum blossoms, the Ume-Gasane, was white with a red inner kimono.

Of the many specific kimono forms, here are just a few:
Juni-hitoe 'twelve layers' - A ladies ceremonial dress of the Heian period.
Featured many layers of kimono in contrasting colours.
Kosode 'small sleeve' - Kamakura period. The usual large open sleeve was sown up, this style led to the modern kimono.
Uchikake A full length outer robe worn by women of noble rank during the Muromachi period. By the late Edo period it was worn by all regardless of class.
Furisode A long flowing sleeved kimono worn only by unmarried women. The sleeves could be 'waved' to attract a would-be lover. Edo period.
Kuro (black)
Tomesode		 Worn by married women. Short sleeves with smaller openings. The formal 'Five crested' version bore a kamon, the family crest in white.
Iro Tomesode A light and colourful kimono for married women on formal occasions.
Shiromuku A bridal kimono of pure white.
Homongi A formal kimono worn when visiting by married or unmarried women. The sleeve length was longer for an unmarried woman.
Mofuku A kimono for mourning. Plain black silk bearing kamon.

Obi
A sash tied about the waist, this essential element of the women's kimono developed during the Edo period into forms with elaborate bows. At first it was tied at the front, then later unmarried women began to tie it at the back. This gave rise to hundreds of different styles of obi, all with different social meanings. The 'sunrise drum bow' for formal occasions, the 'shellfish bow' for visiting or the 'arrow bow' for every day use. The fashion and style of bow was also greatly influenced by kabuki actors.
Obi makura A pad which gives shape to the bow.
Obi-jime The cord tied at the front of the obi.
Obi-dome A broach attached to the front of the
obi for decoration.

Other Garments
Nobles and samurai also wore the kamishimo, a sleeveless jacket with wide shoulders together with hakama, (divided skirt) wide, loose trousers.
Samurai class women would often wear elaborate veils, for modesty, when travelling. The Ichime-gasa was not unlike a long curtain around a wide brimmed hat.
Haori A lightweight outer coat, usually of silk, often black. Worn as ceremonial attire for men, also worn by women in the late Edo period. Cords with tasselled ends are tied in a specific fashion to fasten the coat.
Michiyuki Three-quarter length outer coat of crepe, satin or spun silk. Patterns included stripes and checks.
Dochu-gi An overcoat of three-quarter or half length made from spun silk or wool. Worn for protection & warmth.
Hitatare Common wear for samurai during the Kamakura period (1185-1333). The kimono had pull strings to close the wide sleeves.
Yukata An unlined cotton kimono usually worn after taking a bath.
Eboshi A cap worn by nobles in the Muromachi period (1338-1568)
Footwear  
Tabi White, split-toed socks of linen.
Zori Sandals, worn outdoors with tabi.
Geta Raised wooden sandals. Usually worn without tabi.